How To Differentiate a Real From A Fake Diamond

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The simplest, most honest answer to the question of how to tell a real diamond from a fake is “get a professional to test the diamond.” It takes more than a jewelers’ loupe for clever amateurs to assess a stone. Even trained professionals are finding it difficult to determine a “real” diamond.

These are some hard rules to follow. If you are purchasing a diamond in a setting, check the metal stamp within the band: 10k, 14k, 18k, Pl, and similar markings indicating precious metal increase the odds of the stone mounted in the setting being real.

If you have a powerful magnifying glass or a jeweler’s loupe, examine the girdle-band and edges of the cut stone. One way to tell if it is not real is to look at the edges, if they appear soft and have a rolled appearance than you can be sure it is a fake. You can also achieve this effect using a clear, smooth girdle at the junction of the facets around the heart of the stone.

A loupe can help you identify any imperfections in the stone. It’s hard to replicate these features, which are naturally occurring and very elaborate at the microscopic level. Minor flaws that are all to commonly allowed through cannot be easily spotted by an amateur, and natural diamonds are most valued when they are least flawed.

Weight is a common indicator. Many of the materials that are used for fake diamonds are actually heavier or lighter than the real thing. In particular, the most well known fake diamond, cubic zirconium, is heavier. You need a precision scale and few genuine diamonds to be able to compare them.

Keep glass away from your diamond to avoid scratching. Do not try acid tests that may be used on metals. Don’t try smashing a diamond — it will crush as well as any other crystalline substance and better than many.  Since a pure diamond shifts the heat fast enough to clear the stone, you can fog the stone and see if you can look at it. But that is a mere hint, no more, and is far from fail proof. In terms of true worth, and proving comparatively valueless, composition stones that have the base of one material and a table of diamond, will “pass” the test.

A jeweler can tell you whether or not you got ripped off when you bought your “diamond”. That will mean you have to choose your jewelers carefully, and then ask them for paperwork for each gem. Every stone is unique, and solid documentation can pay off when trying to figure out yours.. To get a correct and fair appraisal, a professional jeweler, can be a reliable and helpful source, as long as he has good sources for his information. 

Think very carefully before going to a chain jeweler for an appraisal, which is not meant as an insult to them. Businesses such as these demonstrate the pros and cons of ass produced distribution and manufacturing. Chain jewelry stores while competent in themselves still will not give you the expertise of a higher end store or assessment business.

Make sure to take the time to learn the background, licensing, and experience of the assessor after checking online or in the yellow pages for advertisements. The good indications of skill are a Licensed jeweler, a good journeyman in a traditional program  and a dealer who has been dealing with stones previously.

If you are bringing in a stone, ask that it be tested in your presence This is to escape swapping from dishonest jewelers.. If you are refused, turn and walk right back out. You can ask for complete documentation if you intend to buy a stone.. And whatever you do, know that the challenge of identifying real diamond has become difficult enough to make even pros think twice and look three times.

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